EOS Crystal Lip Balm is a giant debut for the cult-favourite model proper this minute, nevertheless it’s not the one information: EOS has modified two of its current, in style sphere formulation and revamped its pegboard packaging too. As nicely, throughout a current NYC go to, I snagged some interview time with Mike Wong, the corporate’s government VP of analysis and growth. We spoke in regards to the new launch, the challenges in working with pure components, and the protocols in place in case of consumer-reaction points like people who led to that 2016 class-action lawsuit towards EOS.
eos crystal lip balm: the idea
In response to some client suggestions disclosing a dislike of waxy lip balms – see Liza? It isn’t simply me! – EOS determined to create a wax-free method that would supply vital softening advantages with no rubbery eraser-across-the-lips texture.
Two years of growth later, EOS Crystal Lip Balm ($7.99 CAD at drugstores and $4.99 USD at ulta.com) is making its debut. In packaging loosely evocative of a prism, EOS Crystal hits retailers in Canada and the USA by the top of this month; it is also out there (oops, offered out!) to US followers on the model web site.
Key to the petrolatum- and gluten-free method is a transparent shea butter, together with pure coconut, avocado, castor-seed, sunflower and aloe oils (aloe oil is a supply of conditioning lipids and amino acids). And with out beeswax within the combine, EOS Crystal Lip Balm is vegan. It is also water-free; no preservatives required.
“It is a jellified lip oil,” notes EOS R&D man Dr. Mike Wong. “Strive it on prime of lipstick for added shine.”
FYI: Dr. Wong has a PhD in chemistry and greater than 20 years of expertise within the client items trade; his resumé contains R&D stints at Colgate Palmolive, L’Oréal and Henkel.
And PSSST! Dr. Wong let a newsy tidbit slip: “In truth, we’re popping out with a lip oil,” he stated. #youreaditherefirst
eos crystal lip balm: the evaluation
On the subject of emollient texture and softening properties, the brand new EOS Crystal Lip Balm falls someplace between the unique EOS Balm and the unique Visibly Gentle, albeit nearer to the latter. It glides on fairly easily, nonetheless for those who reside on the dry-ish lips continuum like I do, you would possibly want a lip serum or hydrating serum beneath.
These new Crystal balms are fragranced sufficient that the scents make themselves often called quickly as you uncap them, however they appear to settle down as soon as utilized. I am nonetheless a bit apprehensive about making an attempt Vanilla Orchid as a result of vanilla, however though I am not the most important fan of the fruity-sweet Hibiscus Peach, I can put on it with out scrunched-up face.
Principally, though it seemingly will not be the all-time lip balm you strive, it’s going to be a wonderful dialog piece for the following short while.
P.S. In fact, beeswax within the method would not robotically imply the end will drag; these are wax-included lip balms that do not really feel waxy.
crystal-clear lip balm is not new…
Clearly, the see-through lippie idea itself is not new. DuWop went clear with their IcedTeas lip therapies within the late 2000s and once more in 2016 with a Pirates of the Caribbean assortment; Clarins did it (ish) with their Instantaneous Easy Crystal Lip Balm in 2012; and China-based model Kailijumei did it, as did Winky Lux after them, with their pH-sensitive flower jelly lipsticks, clear bullets embedded with essentially the most delicate wee fleurs. #InstagramGold
However the clear-bullet balm is not but commonplace, and EOS Crystal Lip Balm is certainly simpler on the pockets. It is extra emollient too, insists Dr. Wong. (Sure, extra emollient than DuWop IcedTeas and I suppose identical re: Clarins Crystal Lip Balm though I am unable to fairly recall how these felt; I have never but tried the opposite two.)
Additionally totally different: out of all of those, EOS Crystal Lip Balm is the one one with out petrolatum; it spins on that clear shea butter as an alternative.
eos lip balm method adjustments
You might have already got observed all of the EOS show packaging has modified, with fairly background illustrations which have a modern-yet-vintage aptitude. Two formulation have been tweaked as nicely, with boosted flavour and some additions and substitutions.
The up to date EOS Natural balms within the solid-colour spheres now embody carnuba wax and 25% extra sunflower oil to ship a smoother, much less draggy texture. And youngsters, it is higher! If, like me, you loathed the unique, you will be pleasantly shocked, even happy by EOS Natural Lip Balm model 2.0.
EOS Visibly Gentle Lip Balm, made with water, hyaluronic acid and a extra emollient mix that glides comfortably – that one I preferred. A brand new flavour, Honey Apple, has simply launched. However this method’s modified as nicely.
The up to date EOS Visibly Gentle balm now options cocoa butter on the prime of its ingredient listing, jojoba esters as an alternative of jojoba oil (you recognize jojoba is definitely a liquid wax, sure?), plus rice bran wax and artificial beeswax. The water and hyaluronic acid content material has been eliminated, as have polyglyceryl-Three diisostearate (emulsifier), sodium isostearoyl lactylate (emulsion stabilizer) and ascorbyl palmitate (preservative). And I am sorry to say the feel is not fairly as clean as the unique. *moue*
eos and pure ingredient challenges
Enjoyable truth: EOS goes by way of the most important provide of natural beeswax on this planet. And if you chat with longtime beauty chemists in regards to the distinction between working with artificial components and naturals, you arrive on the identical realization: Mom Nature has no quality control in place. Or at the very least evidently manner.
“There are inconsistent sources yr by yr,” explains Wong. “For instance, if the bee inhabitants in Africa is determined by the climate, is determined by environmental elements, so does the output of beeswax.”
To accommodate Mom Nature’s high quality peccadilloes with uncooked supplies, pure formulation need to be strong, with a built-in flexibility. “If you happen to’re getting a beeswax crop that is somewhat darker this yr, you need to compensate with one thing else to ensure the color stays considerably constant, or if the olive oil from Italy is available in and tastes totally different due to the climate sample, you need to modify for that too.”
And naturally, regardless of the plethora of YouTube DIY hacks, “you possibly can’t simply throw olive oil and shea butter into one thing and say, ‘Oh magic.’ There are dozens of grades of simply olive oil, as you recognize, and each will have an effect on the color, the texture and the style. It’s a must to discover the suitable grade in addition to the suitable percentages, and you actually need to know your uncooked supplies and suppliers,” says Wong.
Additional issues come from the scope of manufacturing: you might have to have the ability to manufacture that product completely in large quantities. If you happen to’ve ever tried to double or triple a baking recipe and failed, you get the thought. “Synthetics are simpler and less expensive; you will get predictable, constant outcomes.”
eos and the class-action aftermath
I hadn’t meant to convey up final yr’s class-action lawsuit towards EOS; it appears apparent to me that if you’re coping with pure merchandise, you need to bear in mind that allergic reactions are potential. (Multiple dermatologist has instructed me that botanicals of their magnificence merchandise are too typically the final components sufferers suspect when an sudden subject erupts.) However our chat about synthetics vs pure components sparked curiosity: if anybody else comes ahead claiming an allergic response, how will the corporate react?
“We take a look at all our merchandise as rigorously as a pharmaceutical firm would,” explains Wong. “Below the care of a dermatologist, we take a look at on 50 to 100 contributors, depart formulation on pores and skin for 2 weeks to find out potential reactions – it is trade apply. However even for those who take a look at on 200, 2000 or 200,000 contributors, there is not any assure. Some persons are allergic to water, you recognize? As nicely, for quite a lot of complicated causes, replicating a reported allergic response in one other individual is actually exhausting. So if somebody has an issue and calls us, we have now to say cease utilizing the product and go see your physician.”
In response to Nancy Chan, EOS’s head of promoting and PR for North America, the corporate has protocols in place “to help customers who imagine they could have a response to the product, together with a medical workforce to supply assist to anybody who has a difficulty. There’s additionally a protocol the place we ask individuals to ship within the product so we are able to take a look at it to ensure nothing is unsuitable from a producing perspective. That we have been capable of settle that lawsuit so quick, inside two weeks, is a testomony to our controls and information.”
A number of information experiences steered that EOS deliberate to place “in-case-of-adverse-reaction” warnings on their packaging, however that does not seem to have occurred simply but.
eos questions for you
So. What do you consider the brand new gluten-free, cruelty-free and vegan EOS Crystal Lip Balm? Of the method tweaks and packaging refresh? You gonna strive? And what do you consider the consumer-reaction protocols? Do we actually want some form of warning on the packaging?
Oh! And what in regards to the coming-soon EOS lip oil? Are you into such issues?
EOS CRYSTAL LIP BALM HIBISCUS PEACH components: Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Polyamide-3, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Decyl Isostearate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Oil, Polyamide-8, Isostearyl Isostearate, Octyldodecanol, Taste (Aroma), Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract, Prunus Persica (Peach) Fruit Extract.
EOS CRYSTAL LIP BALM VANILLA ORCHID components: Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Polyamide-3, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Decyl Isostearate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Oil, Polyamide-8, Isostearyl Isostearate, Octyldodecanol, Taste(Aroma), Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Orchis Mascula Flower Extract.