1925: Issue reveals actress René Adorée a brand new sort of rouge. Hulton Archive, Getty Pictures.
You recognize him finest by his merchandise: Color Elixir Lipstick, Facefinity Basis, Miracle Contact Blush. However have you ever ever considered how Max Issue, one of the vital trusted names in make-up, acquired his begin? As soon as upon a time, beginning a cosmetics enterprise was way more difficult. You couldn’t, say, order mixable bulk pigments on-line to begin growing colours to your startup make-up line. Come to think about it, “as soon as upon a time,” what we all know as make-up at the moment was just about unparalleled!
Let’s journey again to 1909, when Max Issue, a immigrant Polish cosmetician, launched the model that might go on to develop into one of many greatest names in magnificence historical past. On the flip of the 20th century, cosmetics weren’t the easy-to-apply, bottled merchandise we’re so accustomed to now. Grease paints had been the widest out there possibility, and since the ultra-thick formulation and garish colours had been so arduous to work with, they had been largely reserved for stage actors.
1924: Issue teaches Hollywood movie star Louise Fazenda the way to apply lipstick.
It was the movie trade—fully new with the invention of the transferring image in 1895—that in the end launched Issue’s profession. You’ve in all probability seen references to movie in Max Issue advertisements and merchandise. That is likely to be as a result of, if not for Max inventing the world’s first skinny, easy-to-work-with model of grease paints, glamourous Hollywood make-up won’t have taken off so shortly.
Issue’s benefit was that he ran his personal cosmetics lab. That meant he was capable of customise formulation and shades for his purchasers, principally that period’s main movie actresses—Joan Crawford, Jean Harlowe, Bette Davis, and Judy Garland. His magnificence salon, situated close to Hollywood Boulevard, grew to become a staple spot for on-screen beauties.
Outstanding adjustments occurred within the Max Issue product line because the movie trade grew bigger and extra superior. When the standard of black and white movie acquired higher, Issue created Colour Concord Face Powder to maintain faces matte on digicam. When sound and softer lights changed orthochromatic, silent motion pictures in 1927, Issue answered with a extra exact Panchromatic make-up in 1929. And within the late 1930s, when full-color movies began to debut, Issue, alongside along with his son Frank, developed a product idea that’s nonetheless in use at the moment: Pan-Cake make-up.
Pan-Cake make-up was suited to on-screen seems to be, but it surely was additionally actually wearable within the day-to-day. It additionally got here conveniently packaged in a pressed compact, making it one of many first moveable merchandise of its form. It was simply one of many revolutionary cosmetics developed by Issue earlier than his dying in 1938. His invention of the first-ever lip gloss in 1930 was designed to make lips seem higher in black and white movies, and was out there solely to actresses at first. Two years later, he launched it commercially with the identify “X-Rated,” which was extremely scandalous on the time. It was, maybe, a stab on the newly launched Movement Image Manufacturing Code (aka the Hays Code), Hollywood’s first set of censorship pointers.
Nail polish was one other Issue focus. He created a non-liquid, tinted powder that was buffed onto nail beds to reinforce their pink tones. Ultimately, he created a white liquid selection to color on the information. Earlier than lengthy, Liquid Nail Enamel was launched, the earliest model of the nail colours all of us accumulate now.
1933: Issue takes exact measurements of a mannequin’s head and face along with his magnificence micrometer. Normal Photographic Company/Stringer, Getty Pictures.
In fact, not all Max Issue creations had been a success. The Magnificence Micrometer, developed to measure purchasers faces in an effort to discover structural flaws that make-up may right, regarded extra like a medieval torture gadget than a cosmetologist’s device. The birdcage-like headpiece labored by tightening versatile steel bands throughout the face and across the head to measure facial symmetry. Just one Magnificence Micrometer exists and is on show at present on the Hollywood Leisure Museum. (Maybe Issue can also be unknowingly chargeable for the phrase “magnificence is ache”?)
A household man, Issue’s legacy was carried on by his son Frank (who modified his identify to Max Issue Jr.), after which ultimately his grandsons, and now great-grandsons—Dean and Davis Issue, have gone on to develop their very own wildly widespread line: Smashbox.
Max Issue make-up remains to be one of the vital trusted manufacturers within the movie trade. It’s needed to adapt fairly a bit with the dying of Technicolor and trendy applied sciences, specifically digital and high-def. In the present day, Max Issue makes a broad vary of merchandise, together with foundations, concealers, eye shadows, lipsticks, mascaras, and nail polishes. And sure, Pan-Cake make-up remains to be going sturdy in an up to date Pan-Stik formulation.
Max Issue won’t ever get to see simply how expansive the wonder market is at the moment. However one factor’s sure—the trade wouldn’t be the place it’s if it wasn’t for him and his legacy. His affect is obvious in nearly all the pieces we see on division retailer cabinets and wonder counters: “keep all day” lip colours, below eye concealers, and waterproof mascaras. Not solely did the Max Issue firm invent various the important merchandise we use at the moment (and sure, that features the three we simply listed), Issue himself additionally invented the time period “make-up.” Contemplate your thoughts blown.