The Ultimate Scientific Guide to Innisfree My Lip Balm

THE PRODUCT

INNISFREE: MY LIP BALM

Innisfree My Lip Balm Four Flavors

I’ve reviewed a slew of U.S. and European-based manufacturers, however haven’t actually delved into Asian manufacturers.  Nicely, as we speak’s the day, people! And simply so you realize, expensive pals, this received’t be the final. Many extra to return!  However we’ll begin with the Korea-based model, Innisfree.  Extra particularly, assessment Innisfree My Lip Balm.  Three causes:

  1. This can piggyback our assessment of Glossier’s Balm Dotcom and its six flavors.
  2. Of the six Glossier Balm Dotcom flavors, Innisfree My Lip Balm provides 4 comparable choices.
  3. Innisfree (the product baby of Amore Pacific) is at present accessible in the US and on-line.

Asian magnificence manufacturers…

This matter has been a very long time coming.  Within the final 5 years, Asian magnificence manufacturers have given European and American firms a dose of heavy competitors.  The truth is, each Korean magnificence (Ok-Magnificence) and Japanese (J-Magnificence) manufacturers have primarily given Euro/American magnificence firms a heavy dose of humble pie.  This matter could be very near my coronary heart being an Asian-American and having longed for recognition of viable merchandise having its origins from Asia.

Japan

What do I imply by this?

Earlier than, when you lived in Europe or the U.S., you would need to search far and extensive on the web (or journey) for Asian manufacturers.  Quick ahead the previous few years and now you possibly can’t stroll right into a drugstore (like CVS or Goal), beauty retailer (like Sephora or Ulta Magnificence), and even trending clothes shops (like City Outfitters or Anthropologie) with out seeing some type of Asian magnificence model.

It’s simply not attainable.

So why all of the fuss?  Nicely, for one factor, Asian magnificence (together with European magnificence) have at all times been on the forefront with respect to specialised elements, amplifying botanical supplies, and using the most effective applied sciences in formulating their merchandise.  And let’s not overlook their aesthetically and functionally pleasing packaging. However till lately, the American viewers was by no means uncovered to those revolutionary merchandise.

Till now.  

And since this newfound wave of curiosity, an explosion of merchandise and types have flooded the U.S. markets.  A lot so, it usually turns into overwhelming; even daunting.

What do I strive?  Which model is greatest?  Fermented elements?  Probiotic skincare?

Don’t get me improper, there have been some very seasoned Asian manufacturers which can be definitely recognizable to American and European markets for fairly a while – similar to Japanese-based manufacturers, Shiseido or Shu Uemura.  Each oldies, and undoubtedly goodies.

In any case, Ok-Magnificence and J-Magnificence are sizzling proper now.  

Here’s a small checklist of Japanese and Korean manufacturers which have surfaced extra lately:

Korean and Japanese Beauty Brands

However that doesn’t imply different Asian nations (like Thailand, Singapore, Indonesia, Taiwan, and China) don’t have their very own take or native manufacturers value discussing. 

And we hope to delve extra deeply into a few of these manufacturers sooner or later.

However for now, we are going to concentrate on Korean magnificence!

THE INGREDIENTS

My Lip Balm #01 (Inexperienced Peppermint Tea)

Innisfree My Lip Balm 01 (Green Peppermint Tea)

Petrolatum

Petrolatum (also called petroleum jelly) is usually related to the model Vaseline.  

Do you bear in mind Vaseline? And that giant yellow-beige tub with the blue cap?

Vaseline Petroleum Jelly

Petrolatum is usually a standard and traditional moisturizer; used within the prevention of pores and skin infections similar to after ambulatory surgical procedures and upkeep remedy of atopic dermatitis.  It’s a complicated mixture of hydrocarbons which is ready to have a protracted shelf life as a result of its processing.  As a moisturizing product, it’s categorised as an “occlusive” that are substances which have been discovered to bodily block transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

One factor to notice is {that a} 1992 examine examined the belief that the petroleum jelly in Vaseline was occlusive; capable of block TEWL and trapping water beneath the pores and skin’s floor. Fascinating sufficient, the examine concluded that the petroleum jelly in Vaseline neither varieties nor acts like an epicutaneous impermeable membrane; as an alternative, it permeated all through the stratum corneum (higher pores and skin layer) interstices, which allowed for regular barrier restoration regardless of its occlusive properties.

Both approach, there have been quite a few research and analysis relating to petrolatum and its topical results of the pores and skin.  Listed here are just a few fascinating tidbits:

  • A 1971 examine decided that petrolatum was the most effective moisturizers with having a water vapor loss resistance 170 occasions that of olive oil.  Nevertheless, it’s cosmetically much less acceptable as a result of its greasiness.  
  • A 2001 letter decided that petrolatum (at a minimal focus of 5%) could scale back TEWL by greater than 98% adopted by lanolin, mineral oil, and silicones which solely scale back TEWL by 20–30%.  
  • A 2016 examine evaluated the cutaneous molecular and structural results induced by petrolatum.  The examine concluded that utility of petrolatum induced expression of key barrier differentiation markers (filaggrin and loricrin), elevated stratum corneum thickness, and considerably decreased T-cell infiltrates within the setting of “normal-appearing” or non-lesional atopic dermatitis pores and skin.  In brief, petrolatum robustly modulates antimicrobials and epidermal differentiation barrier measures.

One factor to notice: Though recognized for its efficiency as a moisturizing agent; petrolatum usually has facet impact indications for occlusive folliculitis.  

Backside line: Occlusive moisturizing agent usually used for its capabilities of decreasing TEWL by greater than 98%.

Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate

Hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate (or typically referred to as ricinus communis seed oil) produced from castor beans capabilities primarily as skin-conditioning brokers, emulsifiers, surfactants, and cleaning agent in beauty merchandise.  Castor oil is thought to encompass as much as 90% ricinoleic acid:

  • 4% linoleic acid (Omega-6)
  • 3% oleic acid (Omega-9)
  • 1% stearic acid
  • Lower than 1% linolenic fatty acids (Omega-3).

This isn’t the brand new child on the block.  The truth is, castor oils origins stem from Jap Africa, China, and India roughly 1,400 years in the past as a uncooked materials!  But it surely was not till 1988, that castor oil was evaluated for its transepidermal water loss (TEWL) potential.  The examine concluded that castor oil (along with different occlusive brokers: mineral oil and sesame seed oil) confirmed a lower in TEWL charge.  

Backside line: Castor oil is an occlusive agent that exhibits a discount in TEWL.

Microcrystalline Wax

It is a wax derived from petroleum and characterised by the fineness of its crystals in distinction to the bigger crystals of paraffin wax.  Waxes are sometimes utilized in pores and skin and lip care beauty merchandise as a result of their wonderful pores and skin tolerance in addition to their excessive defending and cleaning efficiency and broad viscosity choices.

The truth is, a assessment revealed in 2017, evaluated 13 in vivo (human and animal) and in vitro research investigating general dermal penetration of mineral oil and waxes.  The assessment concluded that mineral oils and waxes are 1) absorbed to the higher layer of the pores and skin (stratum corneum), 2) minor fraction is definitely absorbed deep throughout the pores and skin layer, 3) there isn’t any proof that its percutaneously absorbed (organ absorbed), and 4) beauty use is unlikely to characterize a scientific human well being danger after long-term publicity.

One other vital element is that the common molecular weight of microcrystalline wax ranges between 500-800 g/Mol (Da).  That is vital because of the 500 Dalton rule – which I’ll go into additional element in one other submit.  However briefly, primarily based on an article revealed in 2000; beneath the 500 Da rule, it’s thought that each one frequent contact allergens are beneath 500 Da and bigger molecules (larger than 500 Da) are sometimes non-irritating.  After all, this is able to be a tough rule to check out completely – as all compounds can’t probably be categorized primarily based on molecular weight and examined for particular dermal sensitivities.

Backside line:  So primarily based on this assessment, how are waxes useful to this formulation? If we have in mind that it offers a pleasant protecting defend (as wax tends to do) and is comparatively protected primarily based on evaluations and analysis — then it does make sense as to why Innisfree would come with wax.  Nevertheless, one of these wax is definitely up for dialogue as I couldn’t discover finite revealed advantages.

Beeswax/Cera Alba/Cire D’Abeille

Beeswax is a construction that varieties out of honeycomb.  Bees secrete this waxy materials to construct their beautiful honeycomb hive to be able to defend and retailer honey.  Subsequently, it is smart that beeswax itself is wealthy in hydrophobic protecting properties – extra particularly, hydrocarbons, free fatty acids, esters of fatty acids & alcohols, and varied exogenous substances.  

Beeswax

Previously, the pharmaceutical trade has used beeswax as a key ingredient to arrange ointments and lotions to appease wounds.  This actually hasn’t modified a lot even with present-day modernization. Nevertheless, scientists and researchers have found the antimicrobial advantages and properties of beeswax.  Offering as a great various to harsher artificial chemical compounds that thwart microbial progress in formulations and merchandise.  Even figuring out that not solely is beeswax useful as an anti-inflammatory supply however when coupled with olive oil has been confirmed to be efficient for the remedy of atopic dermatitis and psoriasis.  

Backside line:   Beeswax is a pure materials with protecting power from its fatty acids and hydrophobic properties.  Creating a tremendous moisturizing materials. Plus it’s a good pure various for its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties!

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil

In accordance with a complete evaluation of seed oils carried out in 1992, Sunflower oil comprises excessive ranges of nutritional vitamins A, D, and Ok – with crude sunflower oil having the best content material of vitamin E within the type of α-tocopherol amongst oils.

In a randomized examine in 2013, sunflower seed oil preserved stratum corneum integrity (that’s pores and skin discuss) – and improved hydration in volunteers who utilized it topically after Four weeks. Oddly sufficient, the examine additionally discovered that in distinction; topical remedy of sunflower oil WITH olive oil considerably broken the pores and skin barrier, and due to this fact had the potential to advertise the event of and exacerbate current atopic dermatitis.  Fortunately, not one of the Innisfree My Lip Balm flavors reviewed embrace olive oil.

Backside line: Excessive vitamin E content material for improved hydration.  Primarily based on the 2013 examine, people who’re delicate to atopic dermatitis must be conscious that this product could exacerbate the situation.

Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil

The title of this has at all times made me snigger. The truth is, a childhood good friend of mine and I might at all times chuckle on the sound of this ingredient in merchandise. Was it “ho-ho-ba” or was it “joe-joe-ba”? Both approach, you pronounce it – it’s a purposeful car for offering pure hydration, moisturizing, and firming capabilities synergistically with different key extracts and important oils. Quite a lot of evaluations from scientific literature counsel that jojoba has anti-inflammatory results and can be utilized on quite a lot of pores and skin situations together with pores and skin infections, pores and skin growing old, in addition to wound therapeutic.

The truth is, a 2010 examine assessed the hydration and viscoelastic impact of moisturizers containing completely different natural elements (together with jojoba oil) – after Three weeks of topical utility to the pores and skin. The examine discovered that there was a major improve in pores and skin viscoelasticity (90-95%) and improve in water content material of the stratum corneum (higher layer of the pores and skin) by 60-70%.

Backside line: This humorous sounding oil enhances the penetration of no matter is synergistically formulated into the product. It additionally offers hydration and promotion of pores and skin elasticity!

Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter

Cacao, one of many high uncooked materials sources for a multibillion-dollar meals trade.  Whether or not you’re a chocoholic or not – cacao and its derivatives have lengthy been utilized in varied meals.  

The pulp of the fruit of the Theobroma cacao tree is the supply of cocoa butter (or cupuacu butter)– a pure lipid wealthy in saturated fatty acids which can be saved within the type of triacylglycerides.  The truth is, scientists have decided with its considerable polyphenol and flavonol composition – cacao seed butter could affect therapeutic properties –enhancing dermal blood move, growing photoprotection and in the end contributing to the upkeep of pores and skin well being!

The truth is, we’re simply scratching the floor of its neuroprotective advantages in addition to its antioxidant properties – which all started from the Aztec and Mayan civilizations!  These days, it’s thought-about a contemporary plant-based various to lanolin, which might usually be a sensitizer and allergen.

A water absorption examine was carried out with every of the next: cupuacu, shea butter, and lanolin (stirring till separation was noticed). The examine concluded that cupuacu might assist 440% of its weight in water, which implies that 1 kg of cupuacu butter might take up 4.Four kg of water; permitting it to perform way more successfully as a pores and skin hydrator and plumper.

In 2003, the chemical composition of cupuacu butter was evaluated and located to be wealthy in:

  • Phytosterols (or plant sterols) which fight free radicals; to learn dry, broken pores and skin and
  • Polyphenols to fight free radical injury
  • Fatty acids to guard and moisturize the pores and skin
    • 18.8 % Oleic acid (Omega-9)
    • 55.2% Palmitic acid
    • 3.1% Linoleic acid (Omega-6)
    • 18.0% Linolenic acid (Omega-3)

Backside line:  Offers photo-protective, helps to enhance dermal blood move, preserve general pores and skin well being, pores and skin hydrator and plumper.

Silica Silylate

Silica silylate is the hydrophobic silica by-product and capabilities as an anti-foaming agent, anti-caking agent, bulking agent, binder, skin-conditioning agent, emollient, and viscosity growing agent in cosmetics.

Silica is considerable and makes up of 26% of the Earth’s crust by weight.  It’s discovered primarily in rocks, sand, and clay. Sounds so much like Mica, huh?  The truth is, mica is a type of silica! Together with clay (as talked about earlier than), quartz, emerald, talc, glass, and so forth.

In its purest type – silica is unable to exist in its pure state as a result of its propensity to react with the ambiance (i.e. Oxygen).  Subsequently silica – is definitely silicon dioxide.  And usually talking, there are two types of silica – crystalline and amorphous.  At current, the amorphous type processed synthetically; is historically utilized in cosmetics as an absorbent, anti-caking agent, and suspending agent.

Do you know that it’s the third most considerable hint component within the human physique?  And silicon has been urged that to enhance pores and skin power and elasticity and pivotal in collagen synthesis?  And it’s urged {that a} larger silicon content material within the hair ends in a decrease charge of hair loss and elevated brightness.  Nicely, now you do!

The truth is, in a examine of girls aged 40 to 65 with typical indicators of photoaging — consumption of a bioavailable type of silicon dietary supplements noticed a major enchancment after 20 weeks in pores and skin floor traits and in its mechanical properties.  The examine additionally noticed important enchancment within the fragility of nails and hair in comparison with the placebo group after a nine-month interval.

Backside line:  Silica (or silicon) is protected as it’s clearly an considerable component inside nature and your physique; with research pointing to its constructive results on pores and skin elasticity and enchancment in photo-aged pores and skin.  Silica silylate is the hydrophobic silica by-product and capabilities as an anti-foaming agent, anti-caking agent, skin-conditioning agent, emollient, and viscosity growing agent in cosmetics.

Isostearic Acid

Isostearic acid is a mix of branched-chain 18 carbon aliphatic acids (fatty acid salts) and sometimes perform as an anti-caking agent, emulsion stabilizer, viscosity growing agent, opacifying agent, surfactant, skin-conditioning agent, antioxidant, perfume ingredient, colorant, pores and skin protectant, beauty biocide, and movie former in cosmetics.   Isostearic acid is the salt and ester of stearic acid or stearate.

Stearic acid is a saturated long-chain fatty acid present in varied animal and plant fat. In cosmetics, it’s generally used as an anionic emulsifier and can be a serious part of cocoa butter and shea butter.

A examine in 2010, evaluated the quantity and placement of stearic acid (from a formulated cleanser) within the corneum (layer of the pores and skin) after in vivo cleaning. They concluded that the estimated whole fatty acid delivered to pores and skin from cleaning is similar to the quantity of fatty acid in a corneum layer. Principally what was delivered was what was discovered on the pores and skin layer.

Okay, now for the vital stuff.

A 1989 examine evaluated the pores and skin penetrating results of various branched fatty acids, together with isostearic acid.  The examine concluded that the longer branched chain type (c18) of isostearic acid was simpler in enhancing pores and skin penetration as in comparison with its shorter branched chain model (C2)

Backside line: A fatty acid which regularly capabilities as an anti-caking agent, emulsifier, surfactant, skin-conditioning agent, antioxidant, pores and skin protectant, and movie former in cosmetics.

Mentha Viridis (Spearmint) Leaf Oil

Mentha viridis (spearmint) leaf oil is a unstable oil obtained from the dried tops and leaves of mentha viridis.  Peppermint oil is a hybrid of spearmint (mentha spicata or mentha viridis) and water mint (mentha aquatica).  Each are synonymous with mentha oil, mentha piperita (peppermint) oil. Menthol is an artificial compound obtained from mentha piperita (peppermint) oil.  

Peppermint is a well-liked herb most notably extracted for its pungent menthol oil. It’s broadly utilized in cosmetics, private hygiene merchandise, meals, and aromatic functions. It has various therapeutic properties and sometimes utilized in aromatherapy, tub preparations, mouthwashes, toothpaste, and topical preparations.

In 2001, a security evaluation was carried out and located the oil to primarily be utilized in beauty formulations as a perfume part. The oil itself consists of menthol and menthone. Remoted scientific circumstances of irritation and/or sensitization have been reported as a result of peppermint oil utility and/or its constituents. Nevertheless, peppermint oil (at 8%) itself was not a sensitizer when examined utilizing a maximization protocol.

And at last, a 2010 examine discovered that the important oil of mint could also be exploited as a pure supply of bioactive phytochemicals bearing antimicrobial and antioxidant potentials that might be supplemented for each dietary functions and preservation of meals.

Backside line: This important oil offers a pungent menthol (clear smelling) perfume with proof pointing to its antioxidant and antimicrobial properties.

Tocopheryl Acetate

Tocopheryl acetate is the acetate ester type of Tocopherol – which is probably the most prevalent type of vitamin E in plant seeds and merchandise derived from corn, sesame seed, sunflower, olive oils, and a plethora of nuts.

Baffled Aspect Observe:  Much like Glossier, I’m not fairly certain why Innisfree lists each tocopheryl acetate AND tocopherol of their elements checklist however not collectively, as one is the synthetically derived acetate by-product of the opposite.  Appears a bit redundant because the general molecule itself is similar.

As well as, research have additionally decided that free vitamin E (tocopherol) is way more delicate to oxidative degradation, in comparison with the acetate by-product (tocopheryl acetate); which can be attributed to the bigger molecule (acetate part).

Tocopherol
Tocopherol
Tocopheryl Acetate
Tocopheryl Acetate: Acetate group on the left facet of the molecule.

A lot of the tocopherols are reported to perform in cosmetics as antioxidants or pores and skin conditioning brokers. The truth is, a 2003 examine, evaluated whether or not the mix of topical vitamin C and E was higher for UV safety to the pores and skin than an equal focus of every – alone.  The examine concluded that every (in their very own proper) have been important antioxidants within the safety from pores and skin injury. Nevertheless, the mix of each C and E offered superior synergy towards the likes of pores and skin most cancers and photoaging.  Additional detailed info relating to tocopherol as a serious lipid-soluble chain-breaking antioxidant of membranes and an vital mobile protectant towards oxidative injury was offered in a 2014 security evaluation.

Additionally it is fascinating to notice that in 1999, a examine discovered that topical vitamin E utilized on scars offered no profit (in 90% of the circumstances) to the beauty final result of scars after pores and skin surgical procedure.   And it even seen that 33% of the sufferers handled, developed contact dermatitis to the vitamin E.

General, tocopherol is the predominant type of vitamin E in human and animal tissues, and it has a excessive bioavailability.  The security evaluation acknowledged that tocopherol has some absorption within the UV vary.  Nevertheless, it was famous that in line with animal and scientific testing, tocopheryl acetate was not photo-allergenic or phototoxic.

Backside line:  Robust antioxidant capability.  Greatest if formulated with vitamin C elements however could also be a possible for dermatitis.

Dehydroacetic Acid

Dehydroacetic acid usually capabilities as a preservative at concentrations of lower than 1%.  Apart from that, not a lot was actually discovered on this particular compound so far as revealed research or information.  Nevertheless, the CIR panel has deemed this protected.

Primarily based on trademarked vendor compounds, dehydroacetic acid often is the following:

  • An excellent fungicide and a gentle bactericide, Lonza (Geogard® 111A).
  • A wonderful preservative to guard all sort of beauty formulations used as standalone lively or mixed with different natural acids, phenoxyethanol or components that enhances its exercise (boosters), Chemipol (BIOPOL).

Backside line:  Dehydroacetic acid is a preservative utilized in cosmetics with not a lot public revealed research to assist any particular claims.

Diisostearyl Malate

Diisostearyl malate, the diester of isosteryl alcohol and malic acid,  usually capabilities as a skin-conditioning agent and emollient in cosmetics.

I couldn’t discover any particular information or analysis that may correlate advantages of this part added to the formulation relative to the general results on its claims.  And that will or might not be a great factor. However, the CIR deemed diisostearyl malate to be protected primarily based on their evaluation.

Nevertheless, if we have a look at vendor-specific compounds, the next could also be thought-about:

  • Bernel Ester DISM:  Good binder for pigmented merchandise and is a superb additive for imparting gloss and sheen in make-ups and lip merchandise.
  • PELEMOL DISM:  Displays wonderful pores and skin really feel characterised by cushion and emolliency leaving the pores and skin tender and supple

Backside line:  For now, this capabilities as a skin-conditioning agent and emollient in cosmetics.

Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891)

Titanium Dioxide is an inert, semiconducting materials, which regularly reveals photocatalytic exercise within the presence of sunshine.

Principally, it’s thought-about to be a “pure” materials which might scatter UV and visual radiation – but what can be astonishing is that titanium dioxide may also be absorbed at sure ranges.  Absorption can usually result in hostile results similar to oxidative stress, cell injury, inflammatory responses, and genotoxic results.

Yikes!

Nevertheless, the results are strongly mediated and depending on the chemical and bodily traits of titanium dioxide – similar to measurement, purity, solubility, and so forth.  Since we as shoppers usually are not aware about actual chemical quantity/focus/measurement that’s usually formulated in merchandise we buy – that is definitely regarding!

Backside line:  General titanium dioxide has been utilized in sunscreens since 1952.  Nevertheless, the FDA has solely lately accredited its use in sunscreens since 1999.  Innisfree is probably going utilizing titanium dioxide with the intention of maximizing some form of pearlescent outcomes.  

Sodium Saccharin

Sodium saccharin is a synthetic sweetener (or sugar substitute) that’s usually used as an alternative of desk sugar to sweetened meals and drinks.  Once we usually hear the phrase “saccharin”, we frequently correlate these pink packets of Candy’N Low.

Sweet'N Low

However we additionally equate saccharin with the data, from historic scientific analysis, that it might be thought-about a carcinogen because the late 70s.  

Carcinogenic?  

Why!?

The truth is, because the 70s, the FDA has tried to ban saccharin use as a result of animal research linking correlations to bladder most cancers in rats.   And though this examine nonetheless stays viable; at current, there isn’t any clear relationship between saccharin consumption and well being dangers to people at regular doses.  Moreover, a 2004 examine examined the potential correlation between saccharin (and different synthetic sweeteners) consumption and most cancers incidence and concluded that danger to induce most cancers was negligible primarily based on present literature analysis.  

However I’m nonetheless staying away from saccharin use.  That’s my private opinion.

Ultimately, there doesn’t appear to current a believable or useful must make the most of sodium saccharin on this formulation.  If Innisfree supposed to make use of sodium saccharin to impart a candy, sugary style; then maybe using extra pure sugar alternate options to the formulation could have been a greater route.  Particularly since saccharin use might be probably carcinogenic or cancer-inducing. Alarming, as saccharin remains to be an unknown and up for scientific debate.

Backside line:   Sodium saccharin is a synthetic sweetener with various research pointing to it its carcinogenic capability.

Water/Aqua/Eau

There’s actually no want to enter nice element about this very primary part. Oddly sufficient, making use of huge quantities of water onto the pores and skin floor doesn’t really hydrate – opposite to standard perception. It’s that magical steadiness when hydrating elements seeps beneath the pores and skin’s floor is after we begin to see advantages.

The opposite vital factor to notice is – when a product’s foremost part tends to be water – there might be problems with bacterial contamination or progress. Except there’s some ingredient that will counter this throughout the formulation stability – similar to a chelating agent.  

On this case, the pure chelating agent originates from citric acid coming from two types of citrus elements.

Backside line: Water is neither right here nor there. And since water will not be listed as one of many first elements — this addition doesn’t appear to do a lot for this lip balm formulation.

Glycerin

Glycerin (or glycerol) is without doubt one of the oldest humectant agent (water attracting) elements used to help in hydrating and moisturizing the pores and skin floor. The thought of moisturizers and emollients usually are not solely used to easy the pores and skin however to offer an outlined supple look after repeated use.

A 1993 examine evaluated the affect of glycerin, water, and varied different pores and skin mechanics to make clear the results of short-term affect. The examine confirmed that utilization of those pores and skin mechanics induced important modifications within the mechanical properties of human pores and skin in vivo even AFTER 10 minutes of utility.   Wow!

Nevertheless, a 2001 examine evaluated the affect of a cream containing 20% glycerin and whether or not it affected the pores and skin barrier perform throughout repeat utility. But, the examine failed to point out an affect of glycerin on human pores and skin with respect to TEWL (transepidermal water loss) and pores and skin sensitivity.

But, time and time once more, glycerol has been evaluated for its position in pores and skin hydration, cutaneous elasticity, and epidermal barrier restore. The truth is, glycerol tends to build up throughout the total thickness of the stratum corneum. A assessment in 2008 concluded that glycerol’s three hydrophilic hydroxyl teams have the power to bind and retain water, thus offering enhanced pores and skin hydration.

Backside line:   Glycerin is a humectant agent. Traditionally used for over 50 years in cosmetics to offer hydration and moisture to the pores and skin.

Butylene Glycol

Butylene Glycol (or 1,3-Butylene glycol) is broadly utilized in cosmetics as a low-irritant humectant in skincare merchandise and topical merchandise in comparison with propylene glycol. Nevertheless, there have been varied reported circumstances of allergic contact dermatitis and phone eczema brought on by butylene glycol.

One of many causes this ingredient has been included in beauty formulations is because of its moisturizing properties and its antimicrobial capabilities. However most significantly glycol is most generally used as a car to ship the useful goodness of key elements.

Backside line: Utilized in cosmetics as a low-irritant humectant in comparison with propylene glycol with antimicrobial capabilities. Circumstances of contact dermatitis and eczema have been reported.

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Camellia sinensis is the plant that brings us tea (ex: white, black, oolong, and inexperienced).  Camellia sinensis plant elements perform as exfoliants, antioxidants, antimicrobial, beauty astringent, emollient, skin-conditioning and humectant brokers.

Inexperienced tea usually exists because the precise free leaves.  Whereas matcha is its pulverized and extra concentrated type.  The Chinese language developed the roasting and pulverizing technique of inexperienced tea leaves which leads to the powdery consistency of matcha that we see as we speak.  Go take a look at my in-depth submit on inexperienced tea magnificence right here.

Teas

Numerous unpublished research by the Private Care Merchandise Council and Scientific Analysis Laboratories using camellia sinensis elements in human topics have been submitted.  For example, a facial line filler remedy product containing camellia sinensis leaf extract (0.86%; black tea) was discovered to be non-irritating or sensitizing in a human repeated insult patch check (HRIPT).  A watch cream containing camellia sinensis leaf extract (0.86%; black tea) was discovered to be non-irritating or sensitizing in an HRIPT. And at last, in an HRIPT, a mascara containing camellia sinensis leaf water (30%) was discovered to be non-irritating or sensitizing.

Backside line:   Features as an exfoliant, emollient, humectant, and skin-conditioning agent.  It reveals antimicrobial and antioxidant properties.

Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract

Citrus unshiu peel extract is the extract from the seedless citrus species generally known as unshu mikan (satsuma mandarin or tangerine).  Citrus fruits have performed an vital position in meals consumption, medicinal functions, and aromatherapy.  Citrus unshiu peel extract usually capabilities as a skin-conditioning agent in beauty merchandise.  

A 2002 examine carried out a 24-hour patch check on 10 topics with 0.5% of citrus unshiu peel extract in its formulation.  The examine discovered no irritation.

As well as, different research carried out human repeated insult patch checks (HRIPT) and located no dermal irritation or sensitization:

  • 0.5% citrus unshiu peel extract in its formulation on 50 topics
  • 10% citrus unshiu peel extract in its formulation on 49
  • 100% citrus unshiu peel extract in its formulation on 54 topics.

And at last, in a 2012 examine, fermented citrus unshiu peel extract together with schizophyllum commune mycelia (sort of fungus) was evaluated for its protecting results towards ultraviolet A (UVA) induced photo-aging in human dermal fibrobolasts (HDF).  The outcomes from the examine urged that fermented citrus unshiu peel extract and schizophyllum commune mycelia exhibited potential for various organic actions together with antioxidant exercise, inhibitory exercise after UV irradiation and collagen biosynthesis exercise for beauty and different organic functions.

Backside line: General, citrus unshiu peel extract usually capabilities as a perfume and skin-conditioning agent and will present organic actions similar to its skill to lower UV irradiation, improve collagen, and antioxidant capability.

Opuntia Coccinellifera Fruit Extract

The Opuntia (Cactaceae household) species – extra particularly, the cactus pear fruit has been thought-about a purposeful meals; primarily based on its bioactive compounds similar to vitamin C and vitamin E, polyphenols, carotenoids, and flavonoid compounds (e.g., kaempferol, quercetin, and isorhamnetin).  A 2010 analytical examine, evaluated the antioxidant constituents in cactus pear fruits and located that quercetin and isorhamnetin have been the primary flavonoids detected.  The examine offered the fundamental framework on the presence of bioactive compounds and antioxidant capability in extracts of cactus pear fruits. And in 2013 and 2015, extra antioxidant capability research evaluated the Opuntia varieties (i.e. prickly pear) – confirming the presence of bioactive antioxidant elements.

Subsequent, a assessment in 2014 confirmed the presence of pure cactus compounds having anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, hypoglycemic, antimicrobial and neuro-protective actions.

And a beauty nanoemulsion containing an Opuntia extract was evaluated for its thermal stability and moisturizing efficacy.  The nanoemulsion (which contained 1% Opuntia extract and 0.5% xanthan gum) confirmed a rise in water content material of the stratum corneum (layer of the pores and skin) for five hours after utility – with an general stability for as much as 60 days.

However certainly one of THE most fascinating (and related) research carried out was in 2016, which investigated the capability of lactic acid micro organism to extend the antioxidant and anti inflammatory properties of cactus stems – within the type of lactic acid fermentation.  Cactus cladodes (stem segments) have grow to be more and more standard for his or her medicinal properties and prevention of various ailments – and sometimes a supply of phenolics, fatty acids, and polyunsaturated fatty acids.  Finally, the examine discovered that the method of lactic acid fermentation of cactus elements really enhanced the antioxidant and anti inflammatory properties.

Backside line:   Cactus extract is robust in antioxidant capability; wealthy in polyphenols, flavonoids, and bioactive compounds.  And research have proven when coupled with lactic acid – this nutrient and vitamin dense part could also be amplified!

Orchid Extract

There are various subfamilies for orchids.  Nevertheless, orchids have been discovered to have antibacterial functionalities in cosmetics and fragrances.  The truth is, linalool (22.92%) and 4-methyl-phenol (15.07%), that are remoted from the roots of cymbidium by chromatography, are used as elements in cosmetics and fragrances.

2010 examine evaluated the efficacy of a beauty formulation containing plant extracts (together with orchid extracts).  The orchid extract formulation was in comparison with a 3% vitamin C by-product in Japanese feminine grownup volunteers with melasma.  And after Eight weeks of utility, the beauty formulation containing orchid extracts confirmed a major impact in enhancing the next: measurement, brightness, coloration depth, readability, visibility and world look of the pigmented spots, and likewise the luminosity complexion and pores and skin readability of the face.  Ultimately, orchid extracts confirmed comparable efficacy as in comparison with vitamin C in whitening the pores and skin! Wow!

And in a 2016 examine, cymbidium extract could also be efficient in stopping and decreasing allergic responses and will therapeutic potential as an antiallergic agent in problems similar to atopic dermatitis.

Backside line:   Orchids have been discovered to have antibacterial functionalities in cosmetics and fragrances and been proven to enhance pigmented spots, luminosity complexion, and pores and skin readability.

Camellia Japonica Leaf Extract

Camellia japonica leaf extract is a plant-derived fatty acid tea extract (with origins from Japan) usually functioning as a skin-conditioning, emollient, moisturizing agent, and an antioxidant in cosmetics.  This ingredient has been recognized as protected by the CIR panel.

A 2007 examine investigated the likelihood that camellia japonica oil could also be launched as an anti-wrinkle agent by conducting a human pores and skin main irritation check and trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) check.  TEWL was measured earlier than remedy, then 1h and 2h after remedy; the forearm website was chosen to measure TEWL. The outcomes of the examine noticed a discount in TEWL which urged that camellia japonica oil could also be thought-about as a attainable wrinkle-reducing candidate for topical utility.

The truth is, a 2014 examine evaluated the antioxidant and anti-photoaging functionality of camellia japonica extract; evaluating two types of camellia japonica extracts by way of scavenging actions towards hydrogen peroxide and hydroxyl radicals.  The examine discovered that each exhibited excessive scavenging actions and properties that scale back oxidative stress.

Backside line:   Plant-derived fatty acid tea extract used as a skin-conditioning agent, emollient, and anti-photoaging capabilities.  Camellia japonica could have antioxidant and antiradical capabilities.

Citrus Sudachi Fruit Extract

Citrus sudachi fruit extract is the extract of the fruit citrus sudachi and sometimes perform as a skin-conditioning agent and humectant in beauty merchandise.  As talked about earlier than, citrus fruits have performed an vital position in meals consumption, medicinal functions, and aromatherapy. However extra importantly, citrus peels and citrus primarily based use could also be related to decreased danger of squamous cell carcinoma of the pores and skin, anti-aging, and antioxidant capabilities.  

The truth is, sudachitin, a polymethoxyflavone from citrus sudachi has been discovered to suppress inflammatory responses.

Backside line: General, citrus sudachi fruit extract usually perform as a skin-conditioning agent and humectant.  Citrus sudachi could present organic actions its skill to suppress inflammatory responses and supply antioxidant capabilities.

My Lip Balm #02 (Sky Vanilla Tea)

Innisfree My Lip Balm 02 (Sky Vanilla Tea)

Petrolatum, Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate, Microcrystalline Wax, Beeswax, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Silica Silylate, Isostearic Acid

Reviewed in My Lip Balm #01 (Inexperienced Peppermint Tea).

Perfume/Parfum

Parfum usually stands for as much as a number of hundred perfume elements which can or might not be disclosed to the patron. A 2016 assessment of pure private care merchandise carried out an evaluation of its ingredient lists. Of the 71 pure beauty merchandise containing the phrase “parfum” – solely 15 really indicated that the “parfum” description really encompassed important oils.

For the reason that inclusion of fragrances in cosmetics, there have been many reviews of elevated allergic responses similar to contact dermatitis.  The truth is, a 2014 assessment offered a two-part evaluation of suspected perfume allergens per the next: 1) Analysis of the epidemiology of suspected perfume allergens and a couple of) Reviewed screening strategies, rising perfume allergens, and administration of sufferers with perfume contact allergy.  The assessment really helpful a number of prevention methods to scale back publicity to allergenic fragrances whereas nonetheless enabling its relevant use.

Backside line: Perfume/parfum use is a tough topic.  Some don’t thoughts it, whereas others have intense responses to it as a result of contact dermatitis or different sensitivities.  

Tocopheryl Acetate, Diisostearyl Malate, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Dehydroacetic Acid

Tocopheryl Acetate, Diisostearyl Malate, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), and Dehydroacetic Acid have been reviewed in My Lip Balm #01 (Inexperienced Peppermint Tea).

Citric Acid

Citric acid is a naturally-occurring natural acid (alpha hydroxy acid to be actual) current in lots of meals.  Citric acid usually capabilities as a chelating agent, pH adjuster, moisturizing agent, delicate exfoliant, and perfume ingredient in beauty formulations.  In a 1988 examine, citric acid was discovered to extend pores and skin renewal charge and deal with sun-damaged pores and skin.  

However simply to drive the purpose additional residence, relating to citric acid, various research discovered the next:

  • 1996 examine evaluated the results of AHAs on photo-aged human pores and skin via scientific and microanalytic means.  Sufferers utilized a lotion containing 25% glycolic, lactic, or citric acid (like what’s included on this formulation? surprising!) to 1 forearm and a placebo lotion to the alternative forearm for a median of 6 months.  Remedy with AHAs induced an approximate 25% improve in pores and skin thickness with improved high quality of elastic fibers and elevated density of collagen.
  • 1997 examine examined the impact of 20% citric acid lotion, as in contrast with car alone, on pores and skin thickness and viable epidermal thickness.  Topical citric acid produces modifications just like these noticed in response to glycolic acid, ammonium lactate, and retinoic acid together with will increase in epidermal thickness.

Backside line:   Delicate exfoliant, pores and skin conditioning agent, chelating agent, and pH adjuster in beauty merchandise.  Has been proven to extend elastic fibers, density of collagen, and pores and skin thickness.

Tocopherol, Water / Aqua / Eau, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract, Opuntia Coccinellifera Fruit Extract, Orchid Extract, Camellia Japonica Leaf Extract, Citrus Sudachi Fruit Extract

Reviewed in My Lip Balm #01 (Inexperienced Peppermint Tea).

Water/Aqua/Eau

Reviewed in My Lip Balm #01 (Inexperienced Peppermint Tea).

Nevertheless, one factor to notice is when a product’s foremost or preliminary elements are usually water – there might be problems with bacterial contamination or progress. Except there’s some ingredient that will counter this throughout the formulation stability – similar to a chelating agent.  

Though water is listed in the course of the elements checklist this formulation does have a chelating agent: citric acid.

Backside line: Water is neither right here nor there.  And since water will not be listed as one of many first elements — this addition doesn’t appear to do a lot for this lip balm formulation.

Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract, Opuntia Coccinellifera Fruit Extract, Orchid Extract, Camellia Japonica Leaf Extract, Citrus Sudachi Fruit Extract

Reviewed in My Lip Balm #01 (Inexperienced Peppermint Tea).

Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract

Everyone knows what vanilla is, however do you know that it will get its origins from the orchid household?  In some unspecified time in the future in our lives, we’ve related the scent of vanilla with baked items, ice cream (Häagen-Dazs for me!), candles, and perfumes.  I need to admit, there have been occasions that I’ve actually detested the scent of vanilla. No precise motive. Simply couldn’t stand the scent. Then there have been occasions that the scent of vanilla brings be an absolute pleasure!  Because of this, vanilla is clearly used as a flavoring and perfume agent.

But it surely does supply medicinal advantages:

  • 1998 examine explored the protecting impact of vanillin (a naturally occurring compound in vanilla beans) on radiation-induced chromosomal injury in cells.  The examine concluded that vanillin has the power to scale back chromosomal injury brought on by X-ray and UV mild.
  • 2007 examine evaluated using vanilla in meals preservation.  The examine pointed to the potential use of vanilla extract elements as antioxidants for meals preservation and in well being dietary supplements as nutraceuticals.

One fascinating facet word is that vanilla is ranked second to saffron by way of price as a result of harvesting practices.  Subsequently, the excessive demand for vanilla extract is usually equipped utilizing artificial vanillin (chemically produced from guaiacol and lignin).

Because of this, of the excessive prices to extract plant-derived vanilla, trendy expertise by the use of biotechnology has appeared to step in and supplied alternate options, similar to microbial manufacturing from phenolic stilbenes, lignin, eugenol, and ferulic acid.

Backside line:  General, vanilla oil (albeit pricey to reap) capabilities as a flavoring and perfume agent with protecting, antioxidant, and antimicrobial capabilities.

Phenoxyethanol

Phenoxyethanol is a preservative used to inhibit the expansion of microorganisms in beauty merchandise.  Typically, a product formulated with excessive water content material (is on this scenario) is susceptible to the expansion of microorganisms except sure precautions or elements are added to thwart such issues.

Nevertheless, overuse of preservatives inside a formulation has additionally been proven to result in elevated incidences of contact allergy.  Subsequently, including these elements poses the query of whether or not it’s really value it.

Present focus use in cosmetics primarily based on a CIR evaluation has indicated that phenoxyethanol could also be used at a variety of ≤ 0.0002% to 1%.

Backside line:   A preservative used to thwart the expansion of microorganisms in excessive water content material formulated merchandise.  No actual profit to claims with potential for pores and skin irritations.

Ethylhexylglycerin

And ANOTHER preservative!  Nevertheless, ethylhexylglycerin (an alkyl glyceryl ether) has extra functionalities as a surfactant, emollient, and skin-conditioning agent – along with its antimicrobial properties.

Ethylhexylglycerin is a multifunctional additive for cosmetics and is used as a potentiating agent together with 2-phenoxyethanol (one other preservative) to acquire higher safety towards microbial progress.  A 2016 examine investigated the mechanisms behind potentiation of the bactericidal impact of 2-phenoxyethanol, by ethylhexylglycerin.  The examine concluded that the synergy of ethylhexylglycerin and 2-phenoxyethanol led to fast killing of E. coli – thereby offering microbial safety.  

At present second, there have solely been just a few circumstances the place contact allergy to ethylhexylglycerin have been revealed.  The truth is, a 2016 examine evaluated 13 sufferers who reported allergic contact dermatitis brought on by ethylhexylglycerin.  The examine was carried out at two Belgian college patch check clinics throughout the interval 1990–2015.  The examine recognized ethylhexylglycerin as a beauty sensitizer even in these merchandise marketed to be protected for shoppers.   

Backside line:   Ethylhexylglycerin is probably going used as a preservative to thwart microbial points throughout the formulation – however might also perform as a surfactant, emollient, and skin-conditioning agent.  As in lots of preservatives, ethylhexylglycerin could present an allergic response to extra delicate shoppers.

My Lip Balm #07 (Dried Rose Tea)

Innisfree My Lip Balm 07 (Dried Rose Tea)

Petrolatum, Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate, Microcrystalline Wax, Beeswax, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Silica Silylate, Isostearic Acid

Reviewed in My Lip Balm #01 (Inexperienced Peppermint Tea).

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Capric Triglyceride or Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (CCT) is an emollient ester that was deemed as a protected ingredient to make use of in merchandise per a security evaluation carried out in 1980 per the CIR panel.

Nicely, it’s been fairly a while since 1980. And I’m keen to wager that there have been circumstances reported and research carried out relative to this specific ingredient. The truth is, most lately in 2017, the identical CIR security panel determined to re-evaluate and assess caprylic/capric triglyceride primarily based on present scientific and animal information. And though the decision isn’t essentially in, I might be keen to wager the ultimate evaluation will deem this product protected because the origins of this ingredient come from benign oils.

Again to CCT (or typically generally known as caprylic acid) is a selected fraction of coconut/palm oil fatty acids – leading to a steady type of esters. However how is that this ingredient related to me?!

First, caprylic acid has been discovered and studied to have superior medical potential in anti-cancer, anti-Alzheimer’s, anti-Autism, and offering common circulatory enchancment. But it surely additionally has potential useful functions as an anti-aging ingredient. Yessss!

Backside line: Emollient ingredient derived from coconut and palm oil. Identified for its skin-conditioning and anti-aging capabilities.

Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate

Dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate capabilities as an emollient and viscosity controlling agent.  Apart from that, not a lot was actually discovered on this particular compound so far as revealed research or information.  

Primarily based on a trademarked vendor compound, dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate often is the following:

  • Shaped by the response of dimer dilinoleyl alcohol and dimer dilinoleic acid.  Ideally suited to lipstick and make-up merchandise. PELEMOL DD might be utilized in lipsticks, lip balms, hair conditioners, mascaras and moisturizers.

Backside line:  Dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate is a emollient and viscosity controlling agent in cosmetics with not a lot public revealed research to assist any particular claims.

Iron Oxides (CI 77491)

CI 77491 (Crimson iron oxide)

Iron oxides are naturally sourced however synthetically processed.  Subsequently, most “pure” marketed magnificence firms are likely to make the most of iron oxides of their formulations as a result of this “naturally” derived colorant supply.  Relying on the kind of iron oxide, some varieties could have various hint metals. As a consequence of heavy laws imposed by the FDA, iron oxides are usually protected because the hint quantities of metallic are possible low.

Backside line:  Synthetically processed however naturally sourced ingredient used as a colorant or pigment in cosmetics.  Though they do include hint metals, as a result of heavy FDA laws, the quantity of allowable iron oxides in merchandise is protected for shoppers.

Rose Flower Oil

We’ve reviewed various types of rose flower oil however this doesn’t appear to be very particular to which sort of rose oil used within the formulations.

Regardless, the place would aromatherapy be with out the scent of the rose?

For hundreds of years, people have studied each facet of this plentiful flower. The rose and its petals are sometimes an emblem of affection. In a 2007 examine, 95 macro and micro elements within the important oil of Rosa Damascena (R. damascena) from central Iran. The recognized elements have been β-citronellol (14.5-47.5%), nonadecane (10.5-40.5%), geraniol (5.5-18%), and nerol and kaempferol have been the most important elements of the oil.

As well as, a number of the medicinal results that stem (pun supposed) from the R. damascena are partly attributed to their abundance of phenolics compounds – ensuing as sturdy antioxidants, free-radical scavengers, and exhibiting anti-inflammatory/anti-mutagenic/anti-depressant capabilities.

As well as, rosa canina (rosehip) has lengthy been used for its medicinal properties and sometimes capabilities as a pores and skin conditioning agent, perfume ingredient, astringent, anti-acne agent, humectant, and exfoliant in beauty merchandise.  

The outcomes of a fatty acid evaluation indicated that Rosa canina comprises the next most considerable fatty acids: linoleic acid (35.9–54.8%), α-linolenic acid (16.6–26.5%), and oleic acid (14.7–22.1%).  These important fatty acids are the precursors for omega-3 (linolenic acid and linoleic), 6 (linoleic), and 9 (oleic) which have been proven to in research to enhance pores and skin hydration and elasticity.  And research have concluded that fatty acids (similar to linolenic acid) contained in a majority of those oils create a movie on the pores and skin which reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL), thus contributing to sustaining the proper hydration of the dermis.   

The rosa canina seeds and shells additionally include excessive quantities of carotenoids (precursors of vitamin A and excessive quantity of vitamin E).  Many research have pointed to such nutritional vitamins to assist pores and skin upkeep – with Vitamin A stimulating the cells of the pores and skin, restoring broken pores and skin cells and due to this fact, making an excellent anti-aging ingredient.

With its excessive composition of fatty acids and antioxidants, this oil has comparatively excessive safety towards irritation and oxidative stress.

Backside line:   Rosa canina capabilities as a pores and skin conditioning agent, perfume ingredient, astringent, anti-acne agent, humectant, and exfoliant in beauty merchandise.  As a consequence of its excessive important fatty acid content material, Vitamin A and Vitamin E content material – it usually offers anti-inflammatory and antioxidant capabilities. It has additionally been proven to enhance pores and skin hydration and elasticity.  Ultimately, the important oil is filled with phenolic compounds and has a robust antioxidant capability.

Tocopherol, Water / Aqua / Eau, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract, Opuntia Coccinellifera Fruit Extract, Orchid Extract, Camellia Japonica Leaf Extract, Citrus Sudachi Fruit Extract

Reviewed in My Lip Balm #01 (Inexperienced Peppermint Tea).

My Lip Balm #08 (Solar Kissed Cherry Tea)

Innisfree My Lip Balm 08 (Sun Kissed Cherry Tea)

Petrolatum, Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate, Microcrystalline Wax, Beeswax, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Silica Silylate, Diisostearyl Malate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isostearic Acid, Perfume / Parfum, Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Crimson 6 (CI 15850), Tocopheryl Acetate, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Dehydroacetic Acid, Crimson 27 (CI 45410), Citric Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Crimson 7 Lake (CI 15850), Dehydroacetic Acid, Crimson 27 (CI 45410), Citric Acid, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Sodium Saccharin, Iron Oxides (CI 77492), Tocopherol, Water / Aqua / Eau, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract, Opuntia Coccinellifera Fruit Extract, Orchid Extract, and Camellia Japonica Leaf Extract, Citrus Sudachi Fruit Extract

Petrolatum, Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate, Microcrystalline Wax, Beeswax, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Silica Silylate, Diisostearyl Malate, Isostearic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Sodium Saccharin, Tocopherol, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract, Opuntia Coccinellifera Fruit Extract, Orchid Extract, and Camellia Japonica Leaf Extract, and Citrus Sudachi Fruit Extract have been reviewed in My Lip Balm #01 (Inexperienced Peppermint Tea).

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Crimson 6 (CI 15850), Crimson 7 Lake (CI 15850), and Iron Oxides (CI 77492) have been reviewed in My Lip Balm #07 (Dried Rose Tea).

Perfume /parfum, Crimson 27 (CI 45410), Citric Acid, and Water / Aqua / Eau have been reviewed in My Lip Balm #02 (Sky Vanilla Tea).

Fragaria Vesca (Strawberry) Fruit Extract

Fragaria vesca (woodland strawberry) fruit extract usually capabilities as a skin-conditioning, emollient, moisturizing agent, and an antioxidant in cosmetics.  This ingredient has been recognized as protected by the CIR panel.

Strawberries are sometimes recognized for an abundance of ellagic acid and flavonoids (anthocyanin, catechin, quercetin, and kaempferol) which have are potent antioxidants.  Anthocyanin, a water-soluble flavonoid pigment is answerable for the colours (crimson, blue, purple) of many fruits, flowers, leaves, and seeds.

Strawberries

The truth is, a 2017 examine examined the efficacy of a strawberry-based formulation supplemented with Coenzyme Q10 and solar safety in human dermal fibroblasts irradiated with ultraviolet-A (UVA)-radiation.  The outcomes urged that use of strawberry-based formulations was an “revolutionary, pure, and useful gizmo” for the prevention of UVA exposure-induced pores and skin ailments. The examine additionally concluded that strawberry-based formulations would supply as a great pure substitute for artificial sunscreen brokers.

Though anthocyanins contribute to many well being advantages; you will need to word that they’re restricted by bioavailability and instability when uncovered to oxygen, warmth, and lightweight which can be eradicated as a result of making use of fermentation.

Backside line:  Fragaria vesca (strawberry) fruit extract usually capabilities as a skin-conditioning, emollient, moisturizing agent, and an antioxidant in cosmetics.  It could present as a pure various to artificial sunscreen brokers.

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract

Numerous research have urged that citrus aurantium used for aromatherapy functions confirmed a lower in nervousness and stress ranges.  So whether or not these citrus oils are merely added to calm your anxious senses and thoughts as a part of the skincare remedy course of – we are going to by no means know. However the perfume and aroma provides such a soothing part – don’t you assume?  

Backside line: Used for its aroma and stress/nervousness discount. Robust anti-inflammatory impact.

Prunus Avium (Candy Cherry) Fruit Extract

Prunus avium (candy cherry) fruit extract usually capabilities as a skin-conditioning, emollient, moisturizing agent, and antioxidant in cosmetics.  This ingredient has been recognized as protected by the CIR panel.  

This particular sort of cherries (candy cherries) is especially fascinating in that solely 5 nations are the first producers: Turkey, United States, Iran, Italy, and Spain.  

Candy cherries are a wonderful supply of bioactive molecules and antioxidant compounds similar to carotenoids and unsaturated fatty acids.  And very like strawberries, cherries include polyphenols (flavonoids, anthocyanins, and hydroxycinnamic acids) in addition to excessive ranges of ascorbic acid and potassium.  The truth is, the seed oils can be utilized as preservatives and as elements in meals, pharmaceutical actives, and beauty elements.

Cherries

A 2015 examine in contrast the physico-chemical and biochemical properties of pomegranate (punica granatum), candy cherry (prunus avium) and pumpkin (cucurbita maxima) seed oils obtained by solvent extraction.  The outcomes from the examine decided that cherry and pumpkin seed oils contained excessive quantities of linoleic acid, 41.45% and 47.45%, respectively. As well as, the next excessive share of fatty acid composition was confirmed for candy cherries:

  • Oleic acid: 35.05%
  • Palmitic: 9.05%
  • Saturated fatty acids:  12.20%
  • Monounsaturated fatty acids:  39.49%
  • Polyunsaturated fatty acids:  44.32%

The 2015 examine additionally evaluated the antioxidant exercise of pomegranate, candy cherry, and pumpkin seed oils through the use of the free radical 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazy (DPPH) assay.  The outcomes from the examine decided that cherry (96.23%) and pomegranate (96.80%) seed oils exhibited important antioxidant exercise as in comparison with pumpkin (25.87%) seed oils; which can be correlated with hydrophilic antioxidant elements similar to polyphenols.

Backside line:  Candy cherries capabilities as a skin-conditioning, emollient, moisturizing agent, and antioxidant in cosmetics.  They exhibit excessive quantities of linoleic acid and oleic acid.

THE CLAIMS

All balm flavors declare the next:

My Lip Balm hydrates dry lips by making a non-greasy barrier.

My Lip Balm may also be utilized to cheeks for a hydrated, dewy flush.

Tea complicated helps forestall moisture from evaporating.

Sunflower seed oil, cupuacu butter and jojoba oil coat lips for long-lasting hydration.

Okay, the claims as detailed on the Innisfree My Lip Balm web site for the next:

#01 (Inexperienced Peppermint Tea)

Innisfree My Lip Balm 01 Swatch

#02 (Sky Vanilla Tea)

Innisfree My Lip Balm 02 Swatch

#07 (Dried Rose Tea)

Innisfree My Lip Balm 07 Swatch

#08 (Solar Kissed Cherry Tea)

Innisfree My Lip Balm 08 Swatch

Okay, let’s parse this child to its naked bones primarily based on its elements:

SKIN TYPE & USE

In accordance with Innisfree, the balms have been formulated and must be utilized per the next:

Apply to lips any time for a lift of hydration and a tender wash of coloration.  Use over any lipstick to create a shiny look. Dab on the cheeks for a hydrated, dewy flush.

Fairly self-explanatory and doesn’t want extra clarification.

THE GOOD & THE BAD

Like Glossier Balm Dotcom, there was a particular base formation that continued all through all 4 of the flavors.  These base elements included:

Innisfree My Lip Balm Base

Regardless of the bottom formulation, the next elements offered distinguishable taste elements which separated every balm:

  • Pigments/dyes
  • Applicable taste extracts/oils

Much like my assessment for the Glossier Balm Dotcom, a essential criticism is the addition of the parfum/perfume ingredient.  However in contrast to Glossier Balm Dotcoms, the Innisfree My Lip Balms incorporate the addition of extracts and oils acceptable to every relatable taste:  

  • #01 (Inexperienced Peppermint Tea): Mentha Viridis (Spearmint) Leaf Oil
  • #02 (Sky Vanilla Tea): Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract
  • #07 (Dried Rose Tea): Rose Flower Oil
  • #08 (Solar Kissed Cherry Tea):  Prunus Avium (Candy Cherry) Fruit Extract

Although, in contrast to Glossier Balm Dotcom using preservatives was thrown into the gauntlet:

  • Dehydroacetic acid
  • Phenoxyethanol
  • Ethylhexylglycerin

After which there have been elements that didn’t have publicly accessible analysis or information (outdoors of vendor-specific claims) to offer perception into the true worth of its use:  

  • Diisostearyl malate
  • Dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate

And at last, using sodium saccharin.  

This simply baffles me.

I suppose Innisfree needed to impart that sugary style into their lip balm. Nevertheless, as I mentioned earlier than, I’d gladly relinquish any sugary style or scent if it meant NOT utilizing this synthetic sweetener with various research pointing to it its carcinogenic capability.  

THE UGLY (PRICE)

My Lip Balm

#01 (Inexperienced Peppermint Tea) ($10)

#02 (Sky Vanilla Tea) ($10)

#07 (Dried Rose Tea) ($10)

#08 (Solar Kissed Cherry Tea) ($10)

DO I NEED THIS?

Ultimately, these are lip balms.  And so they do include each botanical and artificial elements.  And as talked about earlier than, the lip balm market is very large and extends to all varieties, for each age group, with ranging worth factors.

So whether or not you select to spend $10 for a tube of Innisfree My Lip Balm, buy different alternate options (see Dupes), or head to your native drugstore — the selection is yours.  

DUPES

#01 (Inexperienced Peppermint Tea):

HURRAW! Mint Lip Balm

100% Pure Natural Mint Lip Balm

100% Pure Candy Mint Lip Balm SPF 15

Cocokind Lip balm (Mint)

Glossier Balm Dotcom (Mint) (Reviewed right here)

Kari Gran Bare Lip Balm

#02 (Sky Vanilla Tea):

HURRAW! Vanilla Bean Balm

Glossier Balm Dotcom (Birthday Cake) (Reviewed right here)

#07 (Dried Rose Tea):

Babo Botanicals Lip Tint Conditioner SPF 15

Glossier Balm Dotcom (Rose) (Reviewed right here)

Herbivore Botanicals Coco Rose Lip Tint – Coral

#08 (Solar Kissed Cherry Tea):

HURRAW! Black Cherry Balm

Carmex Cherry Lip Tube

100% Pure Cherry Lip Balm

Glossier Balm Dotcom (Cherry) (Reviewed right here)

ARE THE CLAIMS BACKED BY SCIENCE?

General, the claims have been very common.  To be fairly sincere, one would hardly name them claims.

As traditional, my recommendation can be to take heed to what might be drawn from a few of these elements.  

Is it well worth the sacrifice if there isn’t any believable profit?  Ultimately, these are selections that we should make and resolve individually.

The truth is the way you go about deciding on these merchandise which include elements that inevitably penetrate your pores and skin.  Some deem sure elements as deal breakers, whereas others don’t see it as a way of buying precedence.

As at all times, the selection is yours.

Till my subsequent assessment!

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